Tuesday, 22 December 2015

Day 2 Bridgetown Barbados

Choosing Excursions

One of the attractions of Swan Hellenic is that practically everything other than alcohol is included in the price you pay when you book. Hence, three months before we were due to sail, a booklet entitled “Your Cruise Book” arrived through the post. This booklet contained (amongst other things):

  • online embarkation instructions;
  • historical and geographical information about the cruise area;
  • details of the 33 shore excursions included in the cost of the trip and the 2 excursions available at additional cost;
  • the current list and details of the guest speakers.

None of the excursions could be described as extremely active or challenging and it was obvious that they had taken into account the restricted mobility that some of their client group might have by ensuring that there was at least one “sit in a coach and watch the scenery pass by in front of you” offering at each port.

Most of the excursions seemed to be offered by one or other of the cruise ships calling at each port. The way we selected those we wanted to go on included researching the “must-see places” at each port and finding reviews of each excursion on the web. This also requires taking into account the very variable quality and bias of some of reviews.

Depending upon how long the ship was due to be in a port and also the duration of the excursion, you could choose one or two from the three or four on offer. We choose eleven in total and also left ourselves time at a couple of ports to do our own thing onshore. It appears that Swan Hellenic usually provide a free shuttle bus from the ship to town for those who want to do their own thing.

We were told that it was sometimes possible to change booked excursions when you arrived on the Minerva but there was no guarantee. Tickets for the excursions were awaiting for us in our cabin when we arrived.

Tour Tickets

Given that the tour staff produce some 4000 tour tickets per cruise, it is a credit to them that only a few errors are made. We checked ours when we got to the cabin and they were all there, a few people we met found that some were missing or were for different tours to those they had booked. Throughout the cruise, the Tour Desk staff were seeking to accommodate additional people on to tours or to swap tours. They were also very pleased if you handed back a ticket for a tour you had decided not to go on because they could then give it to someone on the waiting list. For all but one of the tours, we found that the difficulty description given in the guide book was either accurate or described it a bit harder than it really was. 

Barbados

We know no more about Barbados than we have found in some guide books and on the web. Google Maps tells us: 

Barbados, in the eastern Caribbean, is an independent island nation within the British Commonwealth. Bridgetown, the capital, is a cruise-ship stop with shopping, colonial buildings and one of the Western Hemisphere’s oldest synagogues. British settlers arrived in Barbados in 1628 and there was little there except for a wooden bridge across the water which eventually gave the town its name. British settlers found Bridgetown to be economically viable due to merchants trading in sugar. Historic Bridgetown and its Garrison area has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its well-preserved examples of British colonial architecture built between the 17th and 19th centuries.

Barbados

Barbadian traditions range from afternoon tea and cricket (the national sport) to pursuits such as scuba diving at Dottins Reef and golfing on designer oceanside courses.

  • Currency: Barbadian dollar
  • Capital: Bridgetown
  • Population: 284,644 (2013)

This sign was at the entrance to a large cavernous warehouse containing numerous tourist

Tourist Shops

shops through which all passengers had to pass in order to get out of the port.

Welcome Barbados

Also there was this sign, the national sport is of course Cricket

Advert Aids Cricket

and they have managed to it into a warning sign on the quayside.

The tour we are taking is Barbados Coast to Coast

  • Discover Barbados ‘Coast-to-Coast’ taking in some of the island highlights and traditional scenery. Perched on a cliff 246 metres above sea level, St John’s Parish Church affords spectacular views of both the east and south coasts. The present building was constructed in 1836 after the hurricane of 1831 destroyed the one built in 1660. See the pulpit constructed from six different kinds of wood and an interesting sculpture depicting the Madonna and Child with the infant St John. The churchyard contains the tomb of Ferdinand Paleologus – a descendant of the Byzantine Imperial family, who died in Barbados in 1678. You descend through picturesque landscapes and make a short stop in idyllic Bathsheba before heading inland through the central parish of St Thomas. As the road climbs there are marvellous views towards cane fields. The Highland Adventure Centre sits at an elevation of more than 300 metres above sea level on one of the highest ridges in the island. It overlooks the rugged Scotland district and has views of the East Coast that are truly breathtaking. The picturesque landscape sweeps down to the East Coast where you join the East Coast Road with rolling hills on one side and the pounding Atlantic surf on the other. Pass historic Gun Hill Signal Station and see the stone lion carved by an officer at the station in 1868. This ‘Coast-to-Coast’ sightseeing concludes with the highlights of Bridgetown. Pass Parliament Buildings – home to the third oldest parliament in the Commonwealth established in 1639 and a statue of Lord Nelson – older than the statue of the same name and fame standing in London’s Trafalgar Square.

This description was reasonably kept to during the four hours we were travelling around the island.

Tour Bus

Although there were five buses like this doing the tour, they went off indifferent directions and so it never was the care of travelling in convoy and all arriving at the same place at the same time.

Never having been to this area of the world before, we have only assumptions rather than knowledge.

1960s Horrid

Starting with buildings, standing out like a sore thumb in the middle of town is this 1960s disaster which I show just to prove that throughout the world, architects and town planners are capable of the wrong decision !

Chattel House

There were many houses which were more of the style we had expected to see. This is a Chattel House which is a Barbadian 

Chattel Houses

word for a small moveable house which the owner could take with them if they had to move from one plantation / job to another. 

House with veggie plot

Many houses came with a small plot of land

Village Huts 001

which in the past were used more intensively for food cultivation 

Village Huts

than today. Our first impressions of the island were that it is very green and that most of the land in the areas we saw had been turned over to agriculture.

Coconut Banana Grove

in the past at the expense of the forests which originally had covered the island. 

Old Shack

Our first impressions of Coconut trees 

Coconut Tree

were that they could grow very tall. Locals were very concerned that we might get hit on the head by a falling coconut if we stood underneath a tree - we were constantly warned whenever they saw us getting too close.

St Johns Church in Barbados is one of the "must sees” to which all tourists are taken.

SJC St John s Church

The church was built on the site of the first wooden church of 1645. The first stone church was built in 1660 at a cost to the Diocese of 100,000 lbs of sugar.

St John s Church Sign

Three churches have been destroyed by Hurricanes (1675, 1789, 1831) and this one was built in 1836. Its design is typical of early churches in hot countries,

SJC Interior

a design which encourages air to flow through the large doors at the entrance of the church and the windows on the side.

SJC Airy

The design also provides for separation between Europeans and others

SJC Gallery

with a gallery on three sides

SJC Staircase

accessed by a lovely staircase on each side

SJC Organ

of the Organ.

The pulpit was said to be hand carved out of six different local woods

SJC Pulpit

and the detail on it is exquisite

SJC Pulpit Detail

as this detail shows.

SJC Original Stained Glass

The stained glass behind the Altar was said to be from the original church.

The Graveyard was very interesting in that there was a very good view of parts of the island

Graveyard view

and also of one of the Signal Towers which are

Old signal station

dotted around the island and were one of the main reasons as to why the British managed to repulse any other country seeking to land troops on the island. This was because any attempt to land could be signalled across the island and reinforcement troops could be sent.

The Graveyard itself was full of various Family Graves

Family Grave

such as this one with this inscription

Family Grave Inscription 1

above the doorway

Family Grave Inscription 2

this on the side

Family Grave Inscription 3

and spaces for a few more on another wall.

Another Grave is known as the “Bury Me Upright” grave

Bury me Upright

Bury me Upright Inscription

because the occupant wanted to be buried standing

Coffin View

 so that he could see this view from his grave.

 Of particular significance, was the grave of

Paleolocus Grave

Fernando Paleolocus who was a descendent of the brother of the Emperor Constantine XI. His history (follow the link) is somewhat typical of the early settlers who “escaped” t one of the Colonies. 

Barbados has the Atlantic Ocean on its east coast and the Caribbean Sea on its west coast. A crude summary would say that the Atlantic is rough and cold and the Caribbean is gentle and warm.

Atlantic Rollers

Bathsheba Beach is on the east coast and is the location for Surfing Championships. Our first distant view of the beach showed why it was famous for surfing.

Bathsheba Beach View

There were few other visitors near Mushroom Rock when we were there

Bathsheba Lady

but I did come across this lady whom I have met before on my travels.

From the west coast of the island (Atlantic side) we proceeded across to the east coast (Caribbean Side) and back to the ship where the sea is very much calmer.

To us, the Minerva looks a very business like vessel when compared to many

Minerva Moored Barbados

other cruise ships and certainly looks very smart.

Minerva back to

Our Cabin Outside  3rd from left

Our cabin is the third window from the left and is roughly midships above the stabiliser. 

Reboarding Minerva

As we board, we are given a cold flannel to freshen up with - very welcome when it is hot and sticky on the traveller trail.

Prior to its first departure with a new set of passengers, it is compulsory that the

Muster Drill

ship evacuation procedures have be practised. This involved us all assembling at our designated Muster Point when the Fog Horn sounded the alarm, putting on our life jackets and being told how to jump overboard !!

Having passed this test, the mooring ropes were cast off,

Casting Off

a gap started to appear between the Minerva and

Departure

the Quayside,

Heading Open Sea

we slowly turned 90 degrees

Goodbye Bridgetown

and then headed out to sea.

Tonight the various Lecturers on board introduced themselves and the first lecture was delivered. I am now very much the wiser on Plinyian Volcanic Activity and understand how it has changed the nature of this region.

As is always the case, travelling has made us more curious about the things we do not know. Slavery was abolished in Barbados in 1834 and we found an account of the importance of Slavery to the economy of Barbados here and a lot more information about the island here.

Monday, 21 December 2015

Day 1 Joining the Minerva

Getting to Bridgetown

We avoided a very short night’s sleep and the unpredictable pleasures of the M25 and M23 during the morning rush hour by taking advantage of a “stay, park and fly” deal at the Gatwick Hilton which offered one night plus parking at the Airport for the time we would be away for less than the cost of purchasing parking only. Quite how anyone makes a profit with this type of deal, I do not know but we were more than willing to take advantage of it.

Check-in for our flight from Gatwick to Barbados was at a rather unsociable 8 a.m. in the morning 

Tired Mrs Harvey

and therefore we were tired before we had even set off!

Fellow Passengers

In the gate area, we were able to see that our fellow travellers looked much the same as us and hence our slight worry of being the odd ones out was unfounded.

The flight was progressively delayed and we did not take off until 1330. Swan Hellenic had chartered a plane ostensibly from a Spanish airline called Privilege Fly to take us and 200 others to Bridgetown but in reality it was an old B767 (only ¾ full) from another airline called euroAtlantic.

Euro Atlantic

Once airborne, the Pilot announced that the flight would take about 10½ hours because of strong headwinds and

Route

operational reasons. Virgin & BA did the same distance that day in 9 hours so why our flight took so much longer is a bit of a mystery.

Route Nearly There

Eventually, much to our relief, the moving map showed that we were approaching Bridgetown. Barbados is 4 hours behind GMT and so with the delayed departure and the long flight, we arrived at about 8 pm local time.

I cannot think of anything good to say about the outbound flight. There was no attempt to keep us informed about the flight and the growing departure delay, boarding was chaotic, the entertainment system was out of the ark and showed films which no one in our age group would be interested in, the food was mediocre at best and lunch was not served until two hours after departure, the coffee was the worst I have ever drunk, some of the toilets were out of action, the plane ran out of drinking water …….. and there was no comment of regret or expression of sympathy from anyone when we eventually arrived on the ship.

I will leave it there other than to say that we were very disappointed with Swan Hellenic’s handling of the flight at Gatwick and choice of airline.

Getting to and boarding the Minerva

Normally when you arrive at a foreign airport, you have to queue up to go through Immigration, Baggage Reclaim and Customs. Much to our surprise, for us it was off the plane and onto a bus and we were driven straight to the

Barbados Port

harbour and the Minerva (moored adjacent to the empty quay in this photograph) which was the only cruise ship in port. Our luggage was collected for us by Swan Hellenic and eventually delivered straight to our cabin.

The actual process of becoming a Minerva passenger was relatively easy but very slow because we were on the last of 6 coaches.

Minerva welcome sign

However, waiting at the foot of the gangway as we boarded was the ship’s Captain who shook hands with everyone. Paperwork required us to handover our passport, yellow fever certificates and medical declaration

Passenger Cards

in return for a Passenger ID Card (plus a photograph being taken) and we were then escorted to our cabin (A49).

A49

This was larger than we had imagined it to be and awaiting us on the bed was a variety of paperwork including the programme for today and tomorrow. Dinner had been delayed to accommodate our arrival and afterwards it was some quick partial unpacking and bed.

Our first impressions of the ship and its crew were extremely favourable. Our views on the process of getting here the exact opposite - a view shared by everyone we have spoken to who was on this flight. A letter of comment / complaint will get sent - will it get an adequate response?

Sunday, 20 December 2015

A Cruise on the Swan Hellenic Minerva

2015 has been a difficult year and so as recompense for not having been able to travel for much of the year, we have decided to do something rather different, we are going on a Cruise over Christmas and the New Year. We definitely are not "large boat, 24 hour food, nightly shows, casinos, on-board shops" type of people and the thought of being two amongst thousands fills us with dread. So we have chosen the Swan Hellenic line MV Minerva

Minerva 

because:

  • it is small with about 350 passengers;
  • it has a reputation for (as they put it) "teasing out the ‘what and why and when and how and where and who’, helping to make your cruise an enlightening, stimulating and memorable experience”;
  • many of its guest lecturers are on the NADFAS register and we are great NADFAS fans; and
  • to quote from the Swan Hellenic website “there are no recreational facilities for children aboard MINERVA and reservations for children are not advised.” Children are lovely but at Christmas they can become a bit of a handful !
Minerva Stats

The only other time we have been on a ship for any extended period of time was two weeks down to the Antarctic in 2009 and that boat had only about 100 passengers. Hopefully 3 times that will not be too much of a shock.

The published route is:

Carribean Route

 and the timetable is intended to be:

DatePortArriveDepart
21 Dec BRIDGETOWN, Barbados    In port
22 Dec BRIDGETOWN, Barbados  In port 2.00pm
23 Dec DOMINICA, Dominica  8.00am 10.00pm
24 Dec ST LUCIA, St.Lucia  8.30am 11.30pm
25 Dec CRUISE ON MINERVA     
26 Dec TRINIDAD, Trinidad and Tobago  8.00am 4.30pm
27 Dec MARGARITA ISLAND, Venezuela  8.00am 11.00pm
28 Dec CRUISE ON MINERVA     
29 Dec BONAIRE, Netherlands Antilles  6.30am 1.00pm
  CURACAO, Netherlands Antilles  7.00pm In port
30 Dec CURACAO, Netherlands Antilles  In port 9.30pm
31 Dec ARUBA  8.00am 22.00pm
01 Jan CRUISE ON MINERVA     
02 Jan SANTA MARTA, Colombia  7.30am 8.00pm
03 Jan CARTAGENA, Colombia  12.00am In port
04 Jan CARTAGENA, Colombia  In port  

So seven countries and ten places we have never been to before and know very little about awaits us together with a warmer Christmas and New Year than we would get at home - hopefully we will not put on too much weight although we are already preparing excuses for when we return.

And so a dark Sunday afternoon in late December finds us loading up the car before driving to Gatwick for a pre-flight overnight in an airport hotel before flying off to warmer climes. We are also hoping that the warner weather will help us shrug off the heavy colds which have made us feel quite ill for the past few days. And for once, we are taking one real suitcase on this holiday as well as a capacious soft case for those items for which the risk of creasing does not matter. 

Hilton

Although we have done a lot of research over the past few months, there are still a number of unanswered questions including:

  • “Will Father Christmas be able to find us in the middle of the ocean on Christmas Day?” and ;
  • “Is there a chimney where we can hang up our Christmas Stockings?”

I suspect the answer to at least one of these questions is “Yes”.

Saturday, 10 October 2015

A short trip to Walla Walla

This blog entry records a short trip to Walla Walla in Washington State. I noticed that British Airways were offering cheap tickets to Pasco (about 50 miles away from WW) on the same dates that Pat was going to a Book Festival. So rather than being home alone, I decided to go and visit my cousin and also share my birthday celebration with him. 

Screen Shot 2015 10 20 at 19 55 02

It still amazes me that one can be somewhere in the morning and not too many hours later, be the other side of the world, or in this case, in Seattle about 5000 miles away. 

Despite the bad on-line reviews, immigration management at Seattle was efficient and quick (they have a new semi-automated system) and customs took no interest in the Fortnum and Masons fruit cakes I had brought with me. The hardest part was getting three transit trains to enable me to get from Satellite S at which all intercontinental flights arrive, to Concourse C from where my next flight departed - this took about one hour.

Screen Shot 2015 10 20 at 19 58 29

Despite the fact that Walla Walla has a perfectly good airport with direct flights to Seattle, for reasons I do not understand there were no through tickets from London via Seattle to Walla Walla. Hence I had to fly via Seattle to Pasco which is about 50 miles away from Walla Walla. Through tickets are essential when you are travelling on the cheapest tickets and have to make a connection because if you have separate tickets for each leg and miss the second flight, you are on your own and usually have to purchase a new ticket. With a through thicket, the airline has responsibility for getting you to your destination at no additional cost to you.

Mount Ranier

The second flight gave me a very good view of 14,411 ft Mount Rainier

Flight to Pasco

Flying within America seems a lot more informal than in Europe although the timekeeping of the flights (to and from Seattle) was poor.

Welcome

And 18 hours after closing my front door in England, I met my welcoming party!

Walla Walla

We fell in love with Walla Walla when we (Pat and I) were here a couple of years ago. It really is a perfect example of “Small Town America” and still retains much of the charm it must have had many years ago.

Then and Now

This “then and now” picture shows how little Main Street has changed over the years. The film then showing at the local cinema - “The Duchess of Idaho” dates the earlier photograph to around 1950. The "National Register of Historic Places in Walla Walla County” has a large number of buildings and details of them can be found here.

Main Street

Although there have been some unfortunate developments, many of the older buildings have survived even though their use has changed.

Macys Main Street

The sign on the sidewall of the cinema is still there (although the cinema is now history) and Macys have taken it over as part of their department store which originally opened in the 1920s as Jensens.

There is a very good blog about Downtown Walla Walla here. 

Watch any film which features typical middle class American Houses in the 1950s and in some of the nicer streets, the houses are exactly those you would have seen then.

Walla Walla House

Neatly manicured lawns (the history of this building can be found here), 

Walla Walla House 2

and long sweeping drives and covered porches are a common feature.

Book Box

In the front garden of one house, a boy had put an “Exchange Book Box”.

Halloween 1

And because Halloween was in few weeks time,

Halloween 2

many houses I saw had started the process of getting ready for an

Halloween 3

occasion more enthusiastically celebrated in America than in the UK.

Halloween

I do not think I have ever seen anything so large in the UK.

Walla Walla Downtown

I have always been fascinated by old memorabilia which has escaped the ravages of development.

Rose 1

On the backside of a rather tired building in the downtown area are the remains of painted advertising signs

Rose 2

here advertising 5 cent cigars amongst other things.

Rose 3

Over the years, signs have been painted over signs and I do hope that when the building is finally redeveloped, the signs are not destroyed. Cigars were sold here until the 1950s - a detailed history of the site can be found here.

The building itself has a history. Known as “The Rose Rooms”, for many years the upper stories of the building functioned as a Brothel (possibly from the mid 1800s) and no doubt the back entrances shown these photographs were busy. There is a history of the Rose Rooms here - apparently the rooms were painted green not rose!

Some of the ladies who worked there were buried in the town cemetery. When we went out for a drive, my guide

Guide

was able to take me to their graves - here one of a number.

Anna Brown

I also learnt that they were very enthusiastic patrons of one of the local jewellery stores where the guide’s wife was then a Saturday Assistant, converting earnings into Jewellery being considered better than a bank.

Over the past few years, the region around Walla Walla has become known for its wine as well as its cereal crops. 

Countryside near Walla Walla

It is also stunningly beautiful

UK Contrast

and other than the rather nice hills, not too different a to the countryside around where I live in the UK. 

Last time we were here, we did not get to see Fort Walla Walla but I did this time. It was not at all like what I had imagined it to be, it was more a museum of buildings moved onto the site.

Walla Walla Forts

I did learn however that there were numerous sites for Fort Walla Walla

Fort Walla Walla

When we were in the USA in 2013, in a store in Glacier National Park I found the original of this litho but with no history given. This litho is now on the wall at home and it was nice learn about its history.

One remnant of one of the original forts was the cemetery

Walla Walla Cemetery

which like the best cemeteries, was peaceful and thought provoking.

Indian Pioneer

Here the grave of someone only known as an Indian Pioneer

Nez Perce Indian

and here the grave of someone from the Indian Tribe led by Nez Perce who might have died during their unfortunate history.

Historical details of many buildings in the town can be found here.

The Birthday

Having had a few of them by now, it was a quiet affair although

Zoe and her cake 

on the day, Zoe presented me with a birthday cake which she had made earlier that week

Cake Slice

and it was delicious - thank-you Zoe.

Flight Back

A few days later it was time to get the flight back to the UK. Immigration and customs were non existent on the way back at Seattle and by now, being wiser about the layout of the airport, I managed the reverse journey from Concourse C to Satellite S with a welcome walk and only one transit train.

Thank-you Bill, Jan, Evie and Zoe.